Nkhani ndi Press

Nyengo ino, makampani opanga mafashoni aku Turkey akumana ndi zovuta zambiri, kuyambira pamavuto omwe akupitilira Covid-19 komanso mikangano yazandale m'maiko oyandikana nawo, mpaka kusokonekera kwazinthu zomwe zikupitilira, nyengo yozizira modabwitsa kuyimitsa kupanga komanso mavuto azachuma mdzikolo, monga zikuwonekera pazachuma ku Turkey. zovuta malinga ndi Financial Times yaku UK. Nyuzipepala ya The Times inanena kuti kukwera kwa mitengo kunakwera zaka 20 pa 54% mu March chaka chino.
Ngakhale zovuta izi, talente yokhazikitsidwa komanso yomwe ikubwera yaku Turkey idawonetsa kulimba mtima komanso chiyembekezo pa Istanbul Fashion Week nyengo ino, ndikutengera zochitika zosiyanasiyana ndikuwonetsa njira zowonjezera ndikutsimikizira kupezeka kwawo padziko lonse lapansi nyengo ino.
Zochita zolimbitsa thupi m'malo odziwika bwino monga nyumba yachifumu ya Ottoman ndi tchalitchi cha Crimea chazaka za 160 chibwereranso ku ndondomekoyi, yophatikizidwa ndi zopereka zama digito, komanso ziwonetsero zomwe zatsegulidwa kumene, zokambirana zamagulu ndi pop-ups ku Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Okonza mwambowu - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association kapena İHKİB, Turkey Fashion Designers Association (MTD) ndi Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - agwirizana ndi Istanbul Soho House kuti apatse anthu ammudzimo chidziwitso chowonera komanso kuyendera kudzera mwa mamembala amakampani owulutsa. omvera amatha kulumikizana pa intaneti kudzera pa FWI's Digital Events Center.
Ku Istanbul, panali mphamvu yowoneka bwino ya mphamvu zatsopano pakuwonetsetsa ndi kuwunika kwa zochitika zolimbitsa thupi monga otenga nawo mbali adalumikizananso ndi anthu mdera lawo panyengo yanyengo.
"[Ife] tikusowa kukhala limodzi," adatero Niyazi Erdoğan wojambula zovala zachimuna." Mphamvu ndizokwera ndipo aliyense akufuna kukhala pawonetsero."
Pansipa, BoF imakumana ndi opanga 10 omwe akutukuka komanso okhazikika pamisonkhano yawo ya Fashion Week ndi zochitika kuti adziwe momwe makampeni awo ndi njira zawo zamtunduwu zidasinthira ku Istanbul nyengo ino.
Şansım Adalı adaphunzira ku Brussels asanakhazikitse Sudi Etuz.Wopanga, yemwe amatsata njira yoyamba ya digito, akuyang'ana kwambiri bizinesi yake ya digito lero ndikuchepetsa bizinesi yake ya nsalu.Amagwiritsa ntchito zitsanzo zenizeni, akatswiri ojambula pakompyuta ndi akatswiri anzeru zopangira, komanso monga zosonkhanitsira kapisozi wa NFT ndi zovala zochepa zakuthupi.
Şansım Adalı amachitira chiwonetsero chake ku Crimea Memorial Church pafupi ndi Galata ku Istanbul, komwe zojambula zake za digito zimatengera ma avata a digito ndikuwonetsedwa pazenera lalitali 8. Atataya abambo ake ku Covid-19, adalongosola kuti " sindikumva bwino” kukhala ndi anthu ambiri pawonetsero wa mafashoni pamodzi. M'malo mwake, adagwiritsa ntchito mitundu yake ya digito m'malo ang'onoang'ono owonetsera.
"Ndizochitika zosiyana kwambiri, kukhala ndi chiwonetsero cha digito pamalo akale omanga," adauza BoF." Ndimakonda kusiyana kwake. Aliyense akudziwa za tchalitchichi, koma palibe amene amalowa. Chifukwa chake, ndikungofuna kuwona m'badwo wachichepere mkati ndikukumbukira kuti tili ndi zomanga zokongolazi. ”
Chiwonetsero cha digito chimatsagana ndi sewero la opera, ndipo woyimbayo amavala chimodzi mwazovala zochepa zomwe Adal amapanga lero - koma makamaka, Sudi Etuz akufuna kuyang'ana pa digito.
"Zolinga zanga zamtsogolo ndikungopangitsa kuti nsalu yanga ikhale yaying'ono chifukwa sindikuganiza kuti dziko lapansi likufunika mtundu wina kuti upange zambiri. Ndimayang'ana kwambiri ma projekiti a digito. Ndili ndi gulu la akatswiri opanga makompyuta, ojambula a digito ndi ojambula zovala Team. Gulu langa lopanga ndi Gen Z, ndipo ndimayesetsa kuwamvetsetsa, kuwawonera, kuwamvera. "
Gökay Gündoğdu adasamukira ku New York kuti akaphunzire kasamalidwe kamtundu asanalowe nawo ku Domus Academy ku Milan mu 2007.Gündoğdu adagwira ntchito ku Italy asanakhazikitse chizindikiro chake chachikazi cha TAGG mu 2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu. unayambika pa nthawi ya mliri.
TAGG ikuwonetsa zosonkhanitsira nyengo ino ngati chiwonetsero chamyuziyamu chowonjezera pa digito: "Timagwiritsa ntchito ma QR code ndi zenizeni zenizeni kuti tiwonere makanema omwe akutuluka pamakoma - makanema azithunzi, ngati chiwonetsero cha mafashoni," Gündoğdu adauza BoF.
"Ine sindine munthu wa digito," adatero, koma panthawi ya mliri, "zonse zomwe timachita ndi digito. Timapangitsa kuti tsamba lathu likhale losavuta komanso losavuta kumva. Tili mu [pulatifomu yoyang'anira zinthu zonse] Joor adawonetsa zosonkhanitsa mu 2019 ndipo adapeza makasitomala atsopano komanso atsopano ku US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait. "
Ngakhale adachita bwino, kuyika TAGG pamaakaunti apadziko lonse lapansi nyengo ino kwakhala kovuta. ”Atolankhani ndi ogula padziko lonse lapansi amafuna kuwona china chake kuchokera kwa ife ku Turkey. Sindigwiritsa ntchito zikhalidwe za chikhalidwe - kukongola kwanga kumakhala kocheperako, "adatero. Koma pofuna kukopa omvera apadziko lonse lapansi, Gündodu adakoka kudzoza kuchokera ku nyumba zachifumu zaku Turkey, kutengera kamangidwe kake ndi mkati mwake ndi mitundu yofanana, mawonekedwe ndi masilhouette.
Mavuto azachuma akhudzanso zosonkhanitsa zake nyengo ino: "Lira yaku Turkey ikukulirakulira, ndiye zonse ndizokwera mtengo kwambiri. Kuitanitsa nsalu kuchokera kunja kuli otanganidwa. Boma likuti musakakamize mpikisano pakati pa opanga nsalu zakunja ndi msika wapakhomo. Muyenera kulipira msonkho wowonjezera kuti mutenge kunja." Chifukwa cha zimenezi, okonzawo anasakaniza nsalu za m’dzikolo ndi zimene zinatumizidwa kuchokera ku Italy ndi ku France.
Creative Director Yakup Bicer adakhazikitsa mtundu wake wa Y Plus, mtundu wa unisex, mu 2019 patatha zaka 30 akugwira ntchito yopanga zojambula zaku Turkey.Y Plus idayamba ku London Fashion Week mu February 2020.
Zosonkhanitsira digito za Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 zosonkhanitsira zimalimbikitsidwa ndi "akatswiri a kiyibodi osadziwika ndi omwe amateteza malingaliro a crypto-anarchist" ndipo amapereka uthenga woteteza ufulu wandale pamasamba ochezera.
"Ndikufuna kupitiriza [kuwonetsa] kwa kanthawi," adatero BoF. "Monga momwe tachitira kale, kubweretsa ogula pamodzi pa sabata la mafashoni ndi nthawi yambiri komanso yolemetsa ndalama. Tsopano titha kufikira madera onse padziko lapansi nthawi imodzi ndikungodina batani lowonetsa pakompyuta . ”
Kupitilira luso laukadaulo, Bicer ikuthandizira kupanga kwawoko kuti igonjetse kusokonekera kwa mayendedwe - ndipo pochita izi, ikuyembekeza kubweretsa njira zokhazikika. nkhani yomwe imapanga imakhudza malonda athu onse. [...] Pogwira ntchito ndi zopanga zakomweko, timaonetsetsa kuti [ntchito] zathu ndi [zambiri] zokhazikika, ndipo [ti]nachepetsa kuchuluka kwa mpweya wathu. "
Ece ndi Ayse Ege adayambitsa mtundu wawo wa Dice Kayek mu 1992. Wopangidwa kale ku Paris, mtunduwo adalowa nawo Fédération Française de la Couture mu 1994 ndipo adalandira Mphotho ya Jameel III, mphotho yapadziko lonse lapansi yaukadaulo wamakono ndi kapangidwe kolimbikitsidwa ndi miyambo yachisilamu, 2013.Mtunduwu posachedwapa unasamutsa situdiyo yake ku Istanbul ndipo ili ndi ogulitsa 90 padziko lonse lapansi.
Alongo a Dice Kayek Ece ndi Ayse Ege awonetsa zosonkhanitsira zawo mu kanema wamafashoni nyengo ino - mawonekedwe a digito omwe tsopano akuzidziwa bwino, akupanga mafilimu afashoni kuyambira 2013.Tsegulani ndikubwereranso. Zaka 12, mutha kuwoneranso. Timakonda mitundu yake, "Ece adauza BoF.
Masiku ano, Dice Kayek amagulitsidwa padziko lonse lapansi ku Europe, US, Middle East ndi China. Kudzera m'sitolo yawo ku Paris, adasiyanitsa zomwe ogula amakumana nazo m'sitolo pogwiritsa ntchito miyambo ya ku Turkey ngati njira yopezera malonda." Simungapikisane ndi izi. zazikulu kulikonse, ndipo palibe ntchito kutero, "adatero Ayse, yemwe adati mtunduwo ukukonzekera kutsegula sitolo ina ku London chaka chino.
Alongowa m'mbuyomu adachita bizinesi yawo kuchokera ku Paris asanasamukire ku Istanbul, komwe situdiyo yawo imalumikizidwa kuchipinda chowonetsera cha Beaumonti. ” Pobweretsa zopanga m'nyumba, alongowo adayembekeza kuti luso la ku Turkey limathandizidwa ndikusungidwa m'gulu lake.
Niyazi Erdoğan ndiye mlengi woyambitsa Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 komanso Wachiwiri kwa Purezidenti wa Turkey Fashion Designers Association, komanso mphunzitsi ku Istanbul Fashion Academy. Kuphatikiza pa zovala zachimuna, adayambitsa mtundu wa NIYO mu 2014 ndipo adapambana European Mphoto ya Museum mu chaka chomwecho.
Niyazi Erdoğan adapereka zovala zake zachimuna pa digito nyengo ino: "Tonse tikupanga digito - tikuwonetsa mu Metaverse kapena NFTs. Timagulitsa zosonkhanitsidwa pa digito komanso mwakuthupi, kupita mbali zonse ziwiri. Tikufuna kukonzekera tsogolo la onse awiri, "adauza BoF.
Komabe, kwa nyengo yotsatira, iye anati, "Ndikuganiza kuti tiyenera kukhala ndi masewera olimbitsa thupi. Mafashoni ndi okhudza anthu komanso kumverera, ndipo anthu amakonda kukhala limodzi. Kwa anthu opanga, timafunikira izi. ”
Pa nthawi ya mliri, mtunduwo udapanga malo ogulitsira pa intaneti ndikusintha zosonkhanitsira zawo kuti zikhale "zogulitsa bwino" pa intaneti, poganizira zakusintha kwa ogula panthawi ya mliri. Adawonanso kusintha kwa ogula awa: "Ndikuwona zovala zanga zachimuna kukhala amagulitsidwanso kwa akazi, kotero palibe malire.
Monga mphunzitsi ku IMA, Erdogan akuphunzira nthawi zonse kuchokera ku mbadwo wotsatira. "Kwa m'badwo ngati Alpha, ngati muli mu mafashoni, muyenera kuwamvetsa. Masomphenya anga ndikumvetsetsa zosowa zawo, kukhala ndi malingaliro okhazikika, digito, mtundu, kudula ndi mawonekedwe - tiyenera kugwira ntchito ndi Iwo amalumikizana. "
Wophunzira ku Istituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker adagwira ntchito kumakampani monga Frankie Morello, Colmar ndi Furla asanakhazikitse dzina lake la dzina mu 2012, kupanga zokometsera zokonzeka kuvala, zaukwati ndi couture. Adawonetsa ku London, Paris ndi Milan Fashion Weeks.
Kukondwerera zaka 10 za mtunduwo nyengo ino, Nihan Peker adachita chiwonetsero chazithunzi ku Çırağan Palace, nyumba yachifumu yakale ya Ottoman yomwe idasinthidwa kuchokera ku hotelo yoyang'ana ku Bosphorus. Peker adauza BoF. ”Zaka khumi pambuyo pake, ndikumva ngati nditha kuwuluka momasuka ndikupitilira malire anga.
"Zinanditengera nthawi kuti ndiwonetsetse kuti ndili m'dziko langa," adawonjezera Peker, yemwe adakhala kutsogolo nyengo ino ndi anthu otchuka aku Turkey atavala zojambula kuchokera m'magulu ake akale. Padziko lonse lapansi, "zinthu zikuyenda bwino," adatero. mphamvu ku Middle East.
"Opanga onse aku Turkey amayenera kuganizira zovuta za dera lathu nthawi ndi nthawi. Kunena zowona, monga dziko, tiyenera kuthana ndi nkhani zazikulu za chikhalidwe ndi ndale, kotero ifenso timataya mphamvu. Cholinga changa tsopano ndi kudzera m'magulu anga okonzeka kuvala ndi ma haute couture akupanga mtundu watsopano wonyezimira, wopangidwa. ”
Atamaliza maphunziro awo ku Istanbul Fashion Institute mu 2014, Akyuz adaphunzira digiri ya masters ku Menswear Design ku Marangoni Academy ku Milan. Adagwira ntchito ku Ermenegildo Zegna ndi Costume National asanabwerere ku Turkey mu 2016 ndikukhazikitsa chizindikiro chake cha zovala zachimuna mu 2018.
Muwonetsero wachisanu ndi chimodzi wa nyengoyi, Selen Akyuz adapanga filimu yomwe idawonetsedwa ku Soho House ku Istanbul komanso pa intaneti: "Ndi kanema, ndiye siwonetsero kwenikweni, koma ndikuganiza kuti ikugwirabe ntchito. Komanso maganizo.”
Monga bizinesi yaying'ono, Akyuz ikupanga pang'onopang'ono makasitomala ang'onoang'ono ochokera kumayiko ena, omwe ali ndi makasitomala omwe tsopano ali ku US, Romania ndi Albania." , ndipo tsatirani pang’ono,” iye anatero.” Timatulutsa zonse patebulo langa lodyera. Palibe kupanga kwakukulu. Ndimachita pafupifupi chilichonse ndi manja” - kuphatikiza kupanga ma t-shirts, zipewa, zida ndi matumba a "chigamba, zotsalira" kuti alimbikitse chizolowezi chopanga chopitilira.
Njira yochepetserayi imafikira kwa omwe amapangira nawo ntchito.” M'malo mogwira ntchito ndi opanga zazikulu, ndakhala ndikuyang'ana osoka ang'onoang'ono kuti azithandizira mtundu wanga, koma zakhala zovuta kupeza oyenerera. Amisiri omwe amagwiritsa ntchito njira zachikhalidwe ndizovuta kupeza - kutengera antchito am'badwo wotsatira ochepa.
Gökhan Yavaş adamaliza maphunziro awo ku DEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design mu 2012 ndipo adaphunzira ku IMA asanakhazikitse zovala zake zachimuna mumsewu mu 2017. Mtunduwu ukugwira ntchito ndi makampani monga DHL.
Nyengo ino, Gökhan Yavaş akuwonetsa kanema wachidule ndi chiwonetsero cha mafashoni - chake choyamba m'zaka zitatu. "Taphonya kwambiri - ndi nthawi yolankhulanso ndi anthu. Tikufuna kupitilizabe kuchita ziwonetsero zamafashoni chifukwa pa Instagram, kukuvuta kulumikizana. Ndi zambiri zokhudzana ndi kukumana ndi kumva kuchokera kwa anthu maso ndi maso, "akutero wopanga.
Kampaniyo ikusintha malingaliro ake opanga. "Tasiya kugwiritsa ntchito zikopa zenizeni ndi zikopa zenizeni," adatero, pofotokoza kuti mawonekedwe atatu oyamba agululi adalumikizidwa kuchokera ku masilafu omwe adapangidwa kale. Yavaş watsala pang'ono kugwirizana ndi DHL ipanga malaya amvula kuti agulitse ku mabungwe othandiza zachilengedwe.
Kusakhazikika kwazinthu zakhala zovuta kwa mtundu, vuto loyamba ndikupeza nsalu zambiri za mapira kuchokera kwa ogulitsa. Vuto lachiwiri lomwe akukumana nalo ndikutsegula sitolo ku Turkey kuti agulitse zovala zachimuna, pamene ogula am'deralo amayang'ana pa division ya Turkey Womenswear Designs. ndi China.
Mtundu wa Bashaques wovala bwino unakhazikitsidwa mu 2014 ndi Başak Cankeş. Mtunduwu umagulitsa zovala zosambira ndi ma kimono okhala ndi zojambulajambula.
"Nthawi zambiri, ndimachita nawo zojambulajambula ndi zojambulajambula zovala," wotsogolera zaluso Başak Cankeş adauza a BoF atangopereka zomwe adatulutsa posachedwa pamphindi 45 zowonetsera ku Soho House ku Istanbul.
Chiwonetserochi chikufotokoza nkhani ya maulendo ake opita ku Peru ndi Colombia kukagwira ntchito ndi amisiri awo, kutengera machitidwe ndi zizindikiro za Anatolian, ndi "kuwafunsa momwe amamvera za Anatolian [zosindikiza]". machitidwe wamba pakati pa Asia Turkey Anatolia ndi mayiko aku South America.
“Pafupifupi 60 peresenti ya zosonkhanitsidwazo ndi chidutswa chimodzi, chonsecho cholukidwa pamanja ndi akazi a ku Peru ndi ku Anatolia,” iye akutero.
Cankeş amagulitsa kwa otolera zojambulajambula ku Turkey ndipo akufuna makasitomala ena kuti azitolera zinthu zakale kuchokera ku ntchito yake, akufotokoza kuti "sakufuna kukhala wotchuka padziko lonse lapansi chifukwa ndizovuta kukhala mtundu wapadziko lonse lapansi komanso wokhazikika. Sindikufunanso kupanga gulu lililonse la zidutswa 10 kupatula zosambira kapena ma kimono. Ndi gulu lonse lazojambula, zosinthika zomwe tidzayikanso pa NFTs. Ndimadziona ngati wojambula, osati wopanga mafashoni. "
Gulu la Karma Collective likuyimira talente yomwe ikubwera ya Istanbul Moda Academy, yomwe idakhazikitsidwa mu 2007, yopereka madigiri mu Fashion Design, Technology ndi Product Development, Fashion Management, ndi Fashion Communication ndi Media.
"Vuto lalikulu lomwe ndili nalo ndi nyengo, chifukwa kwakhala chipale chofewa kwa milungu iwiri yapitayi, kotero timakhalanso ndi mavuto ambiri ndi makina ogulitsa ndi nsalu zopangira," Hakalmaz adauza BoF. masabata a zolemba zake za Alter Ego, zoperekedwa ngati gawo la gulu la Karma, komanso lopangidwira nyumba yamafashoni Nocturne.
Hakalmaz sakugwiritsanso ntchito njira zaukadaulo pothandizira kupanga kwake, akuti: "Sindimakonda kugwiritsa ntchito ukadaulo ndipo ndimakhala kutali ndi izi momwe ndingathere chifukwa ndimakonda kuchita zamanja kuti ndizidziwa zakale."