Nkhani ndi Press

Chifukwa chake mukufuna kugula chinthu chatsopano, koma simukufuna kuchita nawo ziwerengero zowopsa zomwe mumapeza mu Googling "zachilengedwe pamafashoni." Mumatani
Ngati mukufuna kukhazikika, mwina mudamvapo mawu akuti: "Yokhazikika ___ ndi yomwe muli nayo kale."Zoona, koma sizothandiza nthawi zonse, makamaka pamene Zovala: Masitayelo akusintha, momwemonso zachuma, ndipo mukufuna kupitiriza ndi kukhala ndi chinthu chatsopano chonyezimira.Komabe, makampani opanga mafashoni ayenera kuchepetsa. fashoni imapanga 10 peresenti ya mpweya woipa wapadziko lonse lapansi komanso gawo limodzi mwa magawo asanu akupanga pulasitiki padziko lonse lapansi.
Chotsatira chabwino kwambiri chokhudza kuvala zovala zomwe muli nazo kale ndi zomwe makampani opanga mafashoni amatcha "kugula mwachidziwitso." Nthawi zambiri timagwirizanitsa kukwera mtengo ndi khalidwe lapamwamba, koma sizili choncho.
Wogula mafashoni Amanda Lee McCarty, yemwe amayendetsa podcast ya Clotheshorse, wakhala akugwira ntchito ngati wogula kwa zaka zoposa 15, makamaka m'makampani othamanga kwambiri-amakhala ndi zomwe amatcha "mafashoni othamanga" kukhala mpando wakutsogolo. makasitomala amafuna kuchotsera, ndipo ngati ogulitsa nthawi zonse sanawapatse, Forever21 adatero, adatero.
Njira yothetsera vutoli, McCarty adati, ndikugula zinthu zamtengo wapatali ndiyeno kukonzekera kugulitsa zambiri pamtengo wotsika - kutanthauza kuti ndalama zopangira zinthu zikutsika. ”Nthawi yomweyo, nsaluyo idazimiririka pazenera, "adatero. kukhala otsika. ”
McCarty adanena kuti chikokacho chafalikira m'makampani, ngakhale kufika ku mafashoni apamwamba. Ndicho chifukwa chake lero, "kuika ndalama" sikuli kophweka monga kugula chinthu chamtengo wapatali. stainable brands sizing.So, kodi tiyenera kuyang'ana chiyani?Palibe yankho limodzi lolondola, koma pali njira miliyoni zokhalira bwino.
Sankhani ulusi wachilengedwe - thonje, bafuta, silika, ubweya, hemp, ndi zina zambiri - zomwe zizikhala nthawi yayitali mu zovala zanu. Mwachindunji, silika adapezeka kuti ndi nsalu yolimba kwambiri potengera nthawi yake yogwiritsira ntchito, ndikutsatiridwa ndi ubweya. chifukwa nsaluzi zimakhalanso ndi nthawi yayitali kwambiri pakati pa kuchapa, zomwe zimathandiza kuti zikhale bwino.Nsalu zachirengedwe zimakhala zowola komanso zimatha kubwezeretsedwanso zikavala. mwaka.)
Erin Beatty, woyambitsa Rentrayage, adati amakonda kupeza hemp ndi jute chifukwa ndi mbewu zongowonjezedwanso.
Kwa Rebecca Burgess, woyambitsa ndi director of nonprofit Fibershed and co-author of Fibershed: A Movement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, ali pafupi kufunafuna kuthandiza madera akumidzi, makamaka nsalu zopangidwa ndi US. "Ndikuyang'ana 100 peresenti ya ubweya kapena 100 peresenti ya thonje ndi zinthu zopezeka m'munda," adatero." Kumene ndimakhala ku California, thonje ndi ubweya ndizo zomwe timapanga.Ndikanalimbikitsa ulusi uliwonse wachilengedwe womwe umagwirizana ndi bioregion. ”
Palinso gulu la ulusi womwe si pulasitiki koma si wachilengedwenso.Viscose ndi ulusi wochokera ku zamkati zamatabwa zomwe zakhala zikugwiritsidwa ntchito ndi sodium hydroxide ndi carbon disulfide.Pali mavuto ena ndi viscose: Malinga ndi Good on You. , njira yopangira viscose ndi yowononga ndi kuipitsa chilengedwe, ndipo kupanga viscose ndi chifukwa cha kuwononga nkhalango.
Posachedwapa, Eco Vero - ulusi wa viscose wogwiritsa ntchito njira yosamalira zachilengedwe komanso yocheperako - idayambitsidwa - kotero njira zina zikuchitidwa kuti zithandizire kuwongolera mpweya wa semi-synthetic fiber iyi.
Yang'anani nsalu zachilengedwe: Tsatanetsatane wa zinthu zopangira ulusi - pali njira zochepa zokhazikika zopangira ulusi wachilengedwe monga thonje ndi silika, monganso ulusi wopangidwa ndi biodegradable semi-synthetic. , koma mutha kuyang'ana silika ya Ahimsa yomwe imasunga mphutsi.Mutha kuyang'ana ziphaso za njira zogwirira ntchito zokhazikika komanso zokhazikika.Mukayikakayika, Caric amalimbikitsa kuyang'ana chiphaso cha GOTS kapena Global Organic Textile Standard chokhala ndi zofunikira zolimba kwambiri zachilengedwe. , njira zatsopano zopangira nsalu zapulasitiki zikupangidwa;mwachitsanzo, "chikopa cha vegan" chakhala chikupangidwa kale kuchokera ku mapulasitiki opangidwa ndi petroleum, koma zipangizo zamakono monga chikopa cha bowa ndi chinanazi zimasonyeza lonjezo lalikulu.
Google ndi bwenzi lanu: Si mitundu yonse yomwe imapereka mwatsatanetsatane momwe nsaluyo imapangidwira, koma opanga zovala ayenera kukhala ndi chizindikiro chamkati chomwe chimaphwanya ulusi wa chovalacho ndi kuchuluka kwake.Kate Caric waku London-based sustainable clothing company points. kunja kuti mitundu yambiri - makamaka mafashoni othamanga - amasokoneza dala zolemba zawo.Plastiki imapita ndi mayina ambiri, kotero ndi bwino google mawu omwe simukuwadziwa.
Ngati tisintha malingaliro athu ndikuwona kugula ma jeans ngati kudzipereka kwazaka zambiri kapena ndalama zopindulitsa, m'malo mongoganiza, titha kusunga zomwe timagula ndikuvala zomwe tili nazo. , Caric akuti, amaika patsogolo zovala zimene zimam’sangalatsa — kuphatikizapo za mafashoni.” Ngati mumakondadi zovala zimenezi ndipo mudzakhala mukuvala zaka ziwiri kuchokera pano, nzabwino kwambiri,” akutero.” Anthu amapeza zambiri. zosangalatsa mu zovala.Ndi zomwe timachita tsiku lililonse ndipo ziyenera kumva bwino. ”
Beatty akuvomereza kuti zovala zimene mumavala kamodzi kapena kaŵiri ndi vuto: “Zikunenadi, kodi ndi zidutswa ziti zimene zingasonyeze maonekedwe ako mobwerezabwereza?”Zina mwa izo ndikuganizira momwe mungasamalire chovala musanachigule;mwachitsanzo, kodi ndi youma yokhayokha? Ngati m'dera lanu mulibe zotsuka zosagwiritsa ntchito zachilengedwe, sizingakhale zomveka kugula mankhwalawa.
Kwa McCarty, m'malo mongogula mwachidwi, adatenga nthawi kuti aganizire momwe chidutswacho chingakwane mu zovala zake komanso malo ake. ”
Pamapeto a Bill McKibben's "Earth," limodzi mwa mabuku olimbikitsa kwambiri omwe ndawerengapo onena za zovuta zanyengo, akumaliza kuti, makamaka, zomwe zikubwera zathu Tsogolo ndikubwereranso ku chikhalidwe chochepa kwambiri chazachuma.Burgess akuvomereza: kukhala kwanuko ndiye chinsinsi chogulira zinthu zokhazikika. ”Ndikufuna kuthandiza madera anga alimi komanso oweta ziweto chifukwa ndikufuna kuwaona akuchepetsa kudalira kwawo chuma chogulitsa kunja,” adatero.” Ndikufuna kulimbikitsa alimi kusamalira malo anga akumaloko kudzera muzosankha zanga zogula."
Abrima Erwiah - pulofesa, katswiri wokhazikika wamafashoni komanso woyambitsa nawo Studio 189 - amatengera njira yofananira. ”Ndimakonda kuti upite kumeneko ukaone zimene akuchita,” iye anatero.
Ntchito imene amagwira tsopano imapindula chifukwa chodzipereka ku Ghana komanso kukhala ndi achibale, zomwe zamuthandiza kuganiziranso mmene amagulitsira zinthu. Kugwirizana kwambiri ndi akatswiri a zovala zamuthandiza kumvetsa mmene zinthu zonse kuyambira pa famu mpaka zovala zimayenderana.” monga Ghana yomwe ili ndi zinthu zambiri zakale, mumazindikira zomwe zimachitika ngati simukufunanso zinthu zanu. "
Pamene mtundu umayesetsa kufufuza chiyambi chenicheni cha zovala zake ndi kuwonekera poyera pazochita zake, zimasonyeza mfundo zolimba.Ngati mukugula nokha, Erwiah akunena kuti ndi bwino kufunsa mafunso okhudza makhalidwe ake abwino komanso okhazikika.Iyi ndi imodzi. Njira zabwino kwambiri zodziwonera nokha ngati zovala zawo zili zoyenera kugulitsa. munthu amene ali ndi chikoka pa kachitidwe ka bizinesi.Kwa mtundu wokulirapo, ngati ogwira ntchito amafunsidwa pafupipafupi za kukhazikika, pakapita nthawi, amatha kuzindikira kuti izi ndizofunikira kwa makasitomala ndikupanga kusintha.Zowona, kugula zambiri tsopano kumachitika pa intaneti. Caric anali kuyang'ana ngati mtundu umayendera mafakitale ake komanso ngati adaphatikiza zambiri patsamba lawo za momwe amalipira antchito awo.Sizimakhala zowawa kutumiza imelo ngati muli ndi mafunso ambiri.
Kubwezeretsanso ndi amodzi mwa mawu omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito poyeretsa fashoni mwachangu. Makamaka poliyesitala yobwezerezedwanso imatha kukhala yovuta. Koma malinga ndi Erwiah, zonse zimangopanga ndi cholinga. Amatchula za cradle to cradle philosophy.Ndikwabwino kusandutsa mabotolo apulasitiki kukhala zovala zochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi. , koma kodi iwo amasanduka chiyani pambuyo pake? Mwinamwake izo ziyenera kukhala momwe zilili ndi kukhala zikugwiritsidwa ntchito kwautali momwe kungathekere;“Nthawi zina ndi bwino kuti tisasinthe,” anatero Erwiah.” Ngati ndi mathalauza a thukuta, mwina n’kungowagwiritsanso ntchito n’kuwapatsa moyo wachiwiri, m’malo moika ndalama zambiri popanga china chake.Palibe yankho lachinthu chimodzi lokwanira.”
Pamene Beatty anaganiza zoyambitsa Rentrayage, anaika maganizo ake pa kukonzanso zinthu zimene anali nazo kale, pogwiritsa ntchito zovala zakale, nsalu zakufa, ndi zinthu zina zimene zinali zitayamba kufalitsidwa—nthawi zonse ankafunafuna miyala yamtengo wapatali, monga ma T-shirt amtundu umodzi aja. "Chimodzi mwazinthu zoyipa kwambiri zachilengedwe ndi ma t-shirts ovala amodzi okha omwe adapangidwira mpikisanowu kapena zina," adatero Beatty." Nthawi zambiri, mutha kupeza mitundu yabwino kwambiri.Timawadula ndipo akuwoneka okongola. "Ambiri mwa ma t-shirts ndi osakaniza a thonje-polyester, koma popeza alipo kale, ayenera kufalitsidwa ngati zovala kwa nthawi yayitali, Beatty amayesa kuwagwiritsanso ntchito chifukwa samakalamba msanga. wa zovala zobwezerezedwanso pathupi pako, ukhoza kuzikulitsa kukhala m’nyumba mwako.” Ndikuwona anthu akusandutsa masiketi kukhala zopukutira,” anatero Beatty.
Nthawi zina, sikuti nthawi zonse mumapeza zolemba zamtundu kapena ngakhale zomwe zili ndi fiber pogula zinthu zomwe zagwiritsidwa ntchito.
Ngakhale m'masitolo ogulitsa zinthu zakale, pali njira zowunika momwe zinthu ziliri komanso kuthekera kosatha, Caric adati.Kwa denim, Caric akunena zinthu ziwiri zofunika kuziyang'ana: Zimadulidwa pa selvedge, ndipo mkati ndi kunja kwa seams ndi zomangika kawiri.Izi ndi njira zonse zolimbikitsira zovala kuti zikhale nthawi yayitali zisanafunike kukonzedwa.
Kugula chovala kumaphatikizapo kutenga udindo pa moyo wa chinthucho - zomwe zikutanthauza kuti tikadutsa zonsezi ndikuzigula, tikuyenera kuzisamalira bwino. Makamaka ndi nsalu zopangira, ndondomeko yochapa ndi complicated.Ndi lingaliro labwino kuyika ndalama mu thumba la fyuluta kuti muyimitse kutulutsidwa kwa microplastics mu dongosolo la madzi, ndipo ngati mukulolera kuwononga pang'ono kuti muyike, mukhoza kugula fyuluta ya makina anu ochapira.Ngati mungathe. , peŵani kugwiritsa ntchito choumitsira chonse.” Mukakayikira, chisambitseni ndi kuumitsa mpweya.Ndicho chinthu chabwino kwambiri chimene mungachite,” akutero Beatty.
McCarty amalimbikitsanso kuwerenga chizindikiro cha chisamaliro mkati mwa chovalacho.Mukadziwa bwino zizindikiro ndi zipangizo, mudzayamba kudziwa zomwe ziyenera kutsukidwa ndi zomwe zili zoyenera kusamba m'manja / mpweya wouma.McCarty amalimbikitsanso kugula "Handy" ya Heloise. Buku la Malangizo a Panyumba, limene nthawi zambiri amaliwona m'masitolo ogulitsa ndalama zosakwana $5, ndikuphunzira njira zoyambira zowerengera, monga kusintha mabatani ndi mabowo.nthawi zina, ndi ofunika ndalama mu tailoring.Atasintha akalowa cha mpesa odula, McCarty amakhulupirira iye adzakhala atavala izo kwa zaka zosachepera 20.
Njira ina yosinthira zovala zotayidwa kapena zong'ambika: utoto.” Musamaderere mphamvu ya utoto wakuda,” adatero Beatty.” Ichi ndi chinsinsi china.Timachita nthawi ndi nthawi.Zimagwira ntchito zodabwitsa. ”
Potumiza imelo yanu, mukuvomereza zomwe tikufuna komanso zinsinsi zathu komanso kulandira maimelo kuchokera kwa ife.
Imelo iyi idzagwiritsidwa ntchito polowera kumasamba onse a New York.Potumiza imelo yanu, mukuvomereza zomwe tikufuna komanso mfundo zachinsinsi komanso kulandira maimelo kuchokera kwa ife.
Monga gawo la akaunti yanu, mudzalandira zosintha zaposachedwa ndi zotsatsa kuchokera ku New York ndipo mutha kutuluka nthawi iliyonse.
Imelo iyi idzagwiritsidwa ntchito polowera kumasamba onse a New York.Potumiza imelo yanu, mukuvomereza zomwe tikufuna komanso mfundo zachinsinsi komanso kulandira maimelo kuchokera kwa ife.
Monga gawo la akaunti yanu, mudzalandira zosintha zaposachedwa ndi zotsatsa kuchokera ku New York ndipo mutha kutuluka nthawi iliyonse.