Nkhani ndi Press

Sid Vicious sangakhulupirire kuti zovala zake zakale zinali zamtengo wapatali komanso kuti anthu achinyengo amatha kuyesetsa kuti aziwanyenga.
Osati kale kwambiri, wolemba mbiri wa chikhalidwe cha pop ku London Paul Gorman, wolemba The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, ndi wogulitsa Rock Fashion Paul Gorman adapeza chidutswa cha Marr.Shirt lolembedwa ndi Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, cha m'ma 1977, kuti aunike.
Zapangidwa kuchokera ku muslin ndipo zimakhala ndi chithunzi chodziwika nthawi yomweyo ndi wojambula Jamie Reid chifukwa cha manja a Sex Pistols '"Anarchy in the UK" single.
Ngati zili zoona, zidzatenga mtengo wabwino kwambiri pamsika. Pamsika wa Bonhams mu May, 1977 Bambo McLaren ndi Ms. Westwood malaya a parachute anagulitsidwa $6,660, pamodzi ndi juzi lakuda ndi lofiira la mohair lopetedwa ndi chigaza ndi crossbones ndi "Sex Pistols" No Tsogolo "Lyrics" amagulitsidwa $8,896.
Komabe, a Gorman sanakhulupirire kuti malaya omwe amawunika ndi omwe mwiniwakeyo adanena.
"M'malo ena, Asilamu satha ntchito," adatero a Gorman." Koma kwina, nsaluyo inali idakali yatsopano.Inkiyo sinali yabwino m'zaka za m'ma 1970 ndipo sinalowe m'nsalu."Atafunsidwa za chiyambi chake, wogulitsayo adachotsa chidutswacho m'nyumba yogulitsirayo ndikuti adagulitsidwa mwamseri .
Takulandilani kudziko lodabwitsa komanso lopindulitsa la punk yabodza. Pazaka 30 zapitazi, zikunamizira kuti zidapangidwa ndi manja ndi zopangira zoyambira za S-ndi-M ndi zithunzi zonyansa, mabala aluso ndi zingwe, mawonekedwe owonjezera ankhondo, ma tweed ndi latex - Sid Vicious ndi anzake mu Anarchy Zimene zinadziwika mu nthawi ya maganizo - wakhala makampani kukula.
"Ndimalandira maimelo angapo mwezi uliwonse ndikufunsa ngati zili zenizeni," adatero Steven Philip, wosunga zakale zamafashoni, wosonkhanitsa komanso mlangizi." Sinditenga nawo mbali.Anthu akugula golide wa zitsiru.Nthawi zonse pamakhala zabodza 500 zenizeni. ”
Kwa theka la zaka, Mr McLaren ndi Ms Westwood adatsegula malo awo ogulitsira malonda, Let It Rock, ku 430 King's Road, London. chithunzi cha punk.
Kwa zaka 10 zotsatira, sitoloyo inasinthidwa kukhala Sex and Seditionaries, kuwonetsa maonekedwe ndi mawu omwe anali ndi zotsatira zabwino kwambiri choncho anali okonzeka kusonkhanitsa. ya “Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.” “Nthaŵi zopanga zinthuzo ndi zazifupi, zovala ndi zodula, ndipo anthu amakonda kuzigula ndi kuzivala mpaka zitatha.”
Dior ndi Fendi wotsogolera zojambulajambula, Kim Jones, ali ndi ntchito zambiri zoyambirira ndipo amakhulupirira kuti "Westwood ndi McLaren adapanga mapulani a zovala zamakono.Iwo anali amasomphenya,” iye akutero.
Malo ambiri osungiramo zinthu zakale amasonkhanitsanso zinthu izi.Michael Costiff, socialite, wopanga mkati ndi woyang'anira World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, anali kasitomala oyambirira a Mr. McLaren ndi Ms. Westwood.Zovala za 178 zomwe adasonkhanitsa ndi mkazi wake, Gerlinde, tsopano ali mgulu la Museum of Victoria and Albert, yomwe idagula zomwe a Costiff adatenga mu 2002 pamtengo wa £42,500 kuchokera ku National Art Collection Fund.
Mtengo wa mpesa McLaren ndi Westwood umawapangitsa kukhala chandamale cha olanda mafashoni.Pamlingo wowonekera bwino, zofananira zimapezeka pa intaneti ndipo zimagulitsidwa mwachindunji komanso motsika mtengo, popanda chinyengo - chithunzi chodziwika bwino pa t-shirt yosavuta.
"Chidutswa ichi chimachokera ku mbiri yakale," atero a Paul Stolper, katswiri wojambula zithunzi wochokera ku London yemwe mndandanda wake waukulu wa nyimbo za punk tsopano uli mu Metropolitan Museum of Art." Chithunzi kapena ziwiri za nthawi inayake, monga Che Guevara kapena Marilyn, amatha kufalitsidwa kudzera mu chikhalidwe chathu.Sex Pistols imatanthauzira nyengo, motero zithunzi zimangopangidwanso nthawi zonse. ”
Kenako pali zabodza zodziwika bwino, monga t-sheti yotsika mtengo ya Zipatso za Loom yokhala ndi Mickey Mouse wopachikidwa, kapena akabudula akapolo a $190 "SEX original" ochokera ku A Store Robot ku Tokyo omwe amadziwika mosavuta kuti siapachiyambi, Chifukwa cha nsalu yatsopano komanso kuti kalembedwe kameneka sikanapangidwe kwenikweni m'zaka za m'ma 1970. Msika wa ku Japan wadzaza ndi zabodza.
Chaka chatha, Bambo Gorman adapeza chovala chotchedwa "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" pa eBay ku UK, chomwe adagula ngati phunziro lowerengera £100 (pafupifupi $139) .
Iye anati: “Ndi chitsanzo chochititsa chidwi cha nkhani zabodza.” Sizinakhalepo.Koma kuwonjezeredwa kwa slogan ya 'Chiwonongeko' ndi kuukira kwa kuyesa kugwiritsa ntchito zojambula zokondedwa kwambiri zomwe zimawonetsedwa motsutsa chikhalidwe zinatsogolera njira ya McLaren ndi Westwood.Ndimagwiritsa ntchito akatswiri Osindikiza atsimikiza kuti inki ndi zamakono, monganso kusoka ma T-shirt."
Mkazi wamasiye wa Mr McLaren, Young Kim, wakhala akugwira ntchito mwakhama kwa zaka zambiri kuti asunge cholowa chake ndi cholowa chake. zinali zabodza.Zovala zoyambirira zinali zazing'ono.Malcolm adawapangitsa kukhala oyenera iye ndi Vivienne.Zovala zambiri pa Met zinali zazikulu ndipo zimakwanira ma punks amasiku ano. "
Palinso zizindikiro zina. ”Ali ndi mathalauza a tweed ndi achikopa, omwe ndi osowa komanso owona, "adatero a King.Kusoka kuli pamwamba pa lamba, osati mkati, monga momwe zingakhalire pa chovala chopangidwa bwino.Ndipo D-ring ndi yatsopano. "
Ntchito yomwe idachitika mu chiwonetsero cha Met cha 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" idakopa chidwi pambuyo poti Mayi King ndi Bambo Gorman adafotokoza poyera za zabodza komanso zosagwirizana zambiri zawonetsero.
Koma pali mafunso okhudza ntchito yomwe idalowa mnyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale zaka zisanu ndi zitatu zapitazo.Zitsanzo zikuphatikiza suti yaukapolo yomwe idawonekera kwambiri muwonetsero wa "Anglomania" wa 2006, wopangidwa ndi wogulitsa zinthu zakale ku London Simon Easton, komanso kampani yobwereketsa ya Westwood ndi McLaren ya Punk. Pistol Collection, yomwe idapereka ma stylists ndi opanga mafilimu, ndi 2003, Bambo Stone waku Iraq ndi bwenzi lake la bizinesi, Gerald Bowey, adakhazikitsa malo osungiramo zinthu zakale pa intaneti.Panthawi ina, nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale idasiya kulemba masuti ngati gawo lazosonkhanitsa.
"Mu 2015, zidutswa ziwiri za McLaren-Westwood m'gulu lathu zidatsimikizika kuti ndi zabodza," atero Andrew Bolton, woyang'anira wamkulu ku Metropolitan Costume Institute." Ntchitozo zidabwezedwa pambuyo pake.Kafukufuku wathu m'derali akupitilira."
A Gorman adatumizira a Bolton maimelo angapo pomwe adanena kuti ntchito zina pamndandandawu zinali ndi zovuta, koma a Gorman adati a Bolton sanamuyankhenso. Bolton anakana kupereka ndemanga ina iliyonse pankhaniyi.
A Easton, omwe sanayankhepo kanthu pa nkhaniyi, adanena kudzera pa imelo kuti a Bowie amamulankhula, koma dzina lake silingatheke mu nthano yabodza ya punk. amaonedwa ndi ambiri ngati gwero lodalirika lazosungira zakale zamitundu yoyambirira ya McLaren ndi Westwood.
Komabe, a Bowie adati ngakhale adayesetsa kutsimikizira zosonkhanitsira, "njira yosasinthika yomwe zovalazo zidapangidwa, kupangidwa ndikusinthidwanso zidalepheretsa.Lerolino, ngakhale ndi mindandanda yamakatalohu ogulitsira, ma risiti ndiponso nthaŵi zina kuchokera ku ziphaso za Westwood, zovala zimenezi zidakali zotsutsana.”
Pa Seputembala 9, 2008, a McLaren adadziwitsidwa koyamba za kukula kwa chinyengo chowazungulira iwo ndi Mayi Westwood kudzera pa imelo yosadziwika yotumizidwa ndi a Gorman pankhaniyi ndikutsimikiziridwa ndi Mayi Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Kutsatira malipoti, apolisi adalowa m'nyumba za Croydon ndi Eastbourne, komwe adapeza zolemba za agitator," imelo idatero.Takulandirani Mr Grant Howard ndi Mr Lee Parker. "
Grant Champkins-Howard, yemwe tsopano ndi DJ pansi pa dzina la Grant Dale, ndi Lee Parker, plumber, anazengedwa mlandu ku Kingston Crown Court mu June 2010, Woweruza Susan Matthews adatero.Iwo ndi "abodza achikale".Katundu wawo adagwidwadi mu 2008 ndi Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad ndipo adalanda katundu wa McLaren ndi Westwood omwe amati ndi zabodza ndi zovala ndi zipangizo zogwirizana nazo, komanso 120 zolemba zabodza za Banksy .
Pambuyo pake awiriwa adapezeka ndi mlandu wonyenga ntchito ya Banksy.Mr.McLaren, mlengi yekhayo wa zovala zoyambirira za Sex ndi Seditionaries wofunitsitsa kuchitira umboni, adafunsidwa kuti afufuze zinthu zomwe adagwidwa ndikuwonetsa kuti zovalazo zinali zabodza: ​​kukula kolakwika kwa zilembo za stencil, nsalu zosagwirizana, kugwiritsa ntchito YKK m'malo mwa zipi zamtundu wa Mphezi. , mawonekedwe olakwika azithunzi ndi tee yoyera yakale yodayidwa.
"Anakwiya," adatero Ms King.Zinali zamtengo wapatali kwa iye.”Pambuyo pa mgwirizano pakati pa a McLaren ndi Ms Westwood mu 1984, panali mbiri yayitali pakati pa awiriwa.
A Howard ndi a Parker adapatsidwa zigamulo zoyimitsidwa pamlandu wa Banks, koma mlandu wa zovala zabodza udathetsedwa pomwe a McLaren adamwalira mu 2010 chifukwa anali mboni yayikulu pakuzenga mlandu pamunda.
Komabe, zikuwoneka kuti banja la a Westwood mwina linayambitsa kapena kuyambitsa bizinesi yabodza mosadziwa. ”Ndidapanga zongopeka pang'ono kuti ndipeze ndalama zoyambitsa Agent Provocateur, "anatero Joe Corré, mwana wa Mr. McLaren ndi Ms. Westwood, yemwe adatsegula zovala zake zamkati mu bizinesi ya 1994.
A Corré anati: “Tinapanganso t-sheti ya mafupa a nkhuku ndi t-shirt ya Venus,” anatero a Corré. .”Izi zisanachitike zofananira zatsatanetsatane komanso zokwera mtengo, kutulutsanso kwa ntchito kunali kocheperako pazowonera za silika pa T-shirts wamba Kusindikiza, liwiro la kupanga limakhala lachangu, ndipo mtengo wake ndi wotchipa.
A Corré adati Vivienne Westwood adapereka chilolezo chojambula.Mu imelo ya 14 October 2008 kwa gulu kuphatikizapo mtolankhani Steven Daly, Mr McLaren analemba kuti: "Ndani anawalola kuchita izi?Ndinamuuza Joe kuti asiye nthawi yomweyo n’kumulembera kalata .Ndakwiya.”
A Corré, amene posachedwapa anakhala mkulu wa bungwe la Vivienne Foundation, “amagwiritsa ntchito mwachifundo ufulu wa ufulu wa ntchito yawo kuti apeze ndalama zothandizira pa ntchito zosiyanasiyana.”Ananenanso kuti afufuza momwe "athetsere" chinyengo. Ms King akupitilizabe kumenyera cholowa cha Mr McLaren ndipo akukhulupirira kuti akuchotsedwa mobwerezabwereza m'mbiri yake.
Bambo Easton ndi Bambo Bowey a punk pistol bizinesi akupitiriza kugulitsa Ms. Westwood ndi Mr. McLaren ntchito kudzera Etsy sitolo SeditionariesInTheUK, ambiri amene ali ndi kalata chiphaso kuchokera Vivienne Westwood Company, yolembedwa, yopangidwa ndi archived ndi Murray Blewett. Izi zinaphatikizapo malaya amizeremizere okhala ndi makolala a Peter Pan ndi zigamba za silika za Karl Marx zopindika, ndi ma jekete a rabara a thonje a Levi.
Intaneti siili yolimba ngati nyumba zogulitsira zambiri, ndipo sakanathirira ndemanga pankhaniyi, koma adati amangoyimira ntchito zokhala ndi zipolopolo, mwachitsanzo zithunzi za mwini wake atavala zovala m'ma 1970s.
"Ndikofunikira kumvetsetsa kuti anthu ambiri omwe amachitiridwa zinthu zabodza amazunzidwa mofunitsitsa," a Gorman adatero.Ndizo zomwe mafashoni amakhudza, sichoncho?Zonse zimayendetsedwa ndi chikhumbo. "